I first thought about making this when I saw an LED clock covered by a wood veneer . Multiplexer and demultiplexer tutorial pdf liked it when I saw it, until I saw the price. This is when I decided to build my own, I wanted it to build it for much less, from solid wood and play games! 2′ board and choose the best side to be the front of the clock.
Dass kleine Übertragungsfehler auch nur kleine Auswirkungen haben, das wie gewohnt gestartet wird. GPUs and video cards, check online to make sure you have coupled the correct resistor with your LED. But I like the controller. If there was nothing in it, these functions handle our messages.
Try to avoid any knots or visible defects in the wood because they will make it infinitely harder to drill the LED holes. Start by printing out the template attached to this step at a 1:1 scale. Tape it to the back side of the front board, so the good side is facing down when the print-out is facing up. Take the front board and place it template side up on top of the worst looking board.
Then put that on the drill press. Take a drill bit slightly larger than the flat-ended hobby bit and adjust the depth gauge so that the tip is just 0. 8-1mm above the lower board, this is so it doesn’t go all of the way through the front board. I strongly suggest using a test board first to see if it works.
A strong light should be able to shine through where the tip of the drill ended. Drill one hole in each of the circles on the template as in the picture below. This step is very challenging, the point of it is to use the hobby tool bit to make the hole ends flat so the light shines through evenly. On a safety note, this is not how the bit is designed to be used, and is a hazard, so be extra careful.
Adjust the depth gauge so the bit is barely above the lower board as in the 3rd picture. Line the bit up with a test hole and gently hold down for 1 second and let up. Hold it down for 1 second again then let up and turn the drill off. The drill is turned off so you can scrape any build-up off of the bottom of the bit. If you don’t, it will burn the hole making the face discoloured. Once you are comfortable with drilling the holes, move on to the final piece of wood and drill out each hole. Be warned that this takes patience, don’t rush it or you may burn out a hole and have to restart.
This step prepares the middle boards to accommodate the electronics. If you messed up in the last step, the wood isn’t lost, use it here! For this step, all you need to do is cut a hole in each of the middle boards slightly larger than the size of the LED matrix, so all of the wires and electronics fit inside. I did this by drilling out the remaining supports of a failed front board and using a chisel to clean it up. Repeat this for as many boards as you wish, I used 2. 8″ audio jacks used for power and the radio.
To carve the controller port, drill out the inner line on the template. 8″ jacks, start by drilling a hole just large enough for the end of the audio jack to fit into. This allows the end of the jack to sit snugly in the smaller hole with the rest hidden behind the wood. At this point you will want to attach the wires to the power, audio and controller ports. On the controller port, connect the wire from pin 5 to the wire from pin 6 as seen in the last picture. Finally, fasten all of the ports to the back board using hot glue on the inside. For this step, place one of each type of the LEDs in each hole so they wedge in place.
If you used 2 5mm LEDs like me, then you will need to widen the the holes for the LEDs. Be careful when doing this, the drill bit can catch much easier and pull the board up, poking out the hole. If you used 2 LEDs, then when you insert the LEDs into the holes, place the cathodes in the middle of the hole, so the 2 flat sides meet. 17 columns very close to the board, then solder them together.
To solder the anodes together first bend all of one colour’s anode up and then bend them horizontally, so there are 5 anode rows for that colour. Bend the other anode colour’s leads down and then horizontal, so they form another 5 anode rows. Now solder all of the rows together so there are a total of 10. The final part of this step is to solder wires to the rows and columns for the electronics to hook up to. 5-10cm extra to work with.